If someone wants to remove it some day they will hate me. Well I did not documented making the the front spring mount at all but here it is. Shorter shackle length is possible if needed.įound out my own hangers needed some work if I was going to keep them. I got some 3/8" bar stock and went to town. I also used the sawzall to put 3 1/16" grooves in the shackle mount so there is somewhere for grease to sit. I beat the centers out then used a sawzall to cut the bushing outer sleeve. That ended being a mistake but the springs were pretty cheap and I will probably go to a stock gasser SD leaf spring at some point. I ended up buying pro comp 2" lift springs. So with clearances tight I decided to use superduty front leafs. Next I will move on with the SD leaf spring swap that helped the crossover clearance. I was able to move them under because SD springs are a shorter stack.ĭraglink mocked up and working on the track bar. Later I moved the draglink to the underside of the highsteer arm. I clearanced the frame to clear the draglink. It would easier to just trim the original to clear the pitman arm. I build a new crossmember because of a motor swap. Pitman arm is a PA700 universal from PSC.ĭana 60 high steer arm is from Ruffstuff.Ĭrossmember built and track bar mount tacked on. If you have relatively flat springs and and not a lot of angle in your drag link you can probably get by without one but I wanted the best handling front leaf sprung truck I was capable of putting together. The better the front diff is controlled the better it will drive. I also did a track bar for the front suspension. The engine crossmember will have to be modified or you will need at least 2" of lift. Now the biggest problem is that I was unable to find a way to do crossover without lift and keep the crossmember under the motor unmodified. I had already completed a 78-79 4x4 f250 power steering gear box swap. So my main goal is make the truck drive more like a 99-04 Superduty. If anything people can probably learn from my mistakes. of the 3 ord drag links ive had my hands on, all 3 where to long and had to be cut and retaped.Figured I would document my crossover steering and front SD spring swap. you will not need a drop pitman arm if you use the bent drag. If you have a 6-8" truck and want to use a bent drag link ord's is $190 total and that is with the DRAG LINK END which is more flexible than a tie rod end. There is nothing wrong with useing the drop arm, its just slightly more $$$, it will give you a better angle on your drag link and might be neccessary if you have a tall truck. you can run a small grinder though it and wipe out the main keys and it will become fully adjustable. BUT it is 10* keyed off of straight, it will not be centerd correctly on your box and will slightly affect your steering, I HAVENT HAD A PROBLEM WITH ITS OPERATION IN 2 YEARS OF USE. The ford arm is not the ideal route to go but it has its benifits, it is very tight to the frame and will easily clear suspension at full stuff. it is straght and did not need to be bent. I have a 6" lift, i used ord arms, i used the ford arm and the stock tierod as a drag link. That is a rough idea, there a lot of ways to do it. Pitman arm from late 70's ford van or drop pitman fro ord is $70. Stock 10bolt tie rod and ends, cut off rh threaded end and retap correct length. Stock 2wd box from matching decade truck, 80+ are differnt fittings than 79. You will also need a rh 7/8" x 18 tpi tap, $25 and almost has to be mail orderd.Īll most everything else can be had used. How much lift!? very important !!! info needed asap.
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